“A wildly ingenious Moschino show that played with semantics as much as clothes” Vogue

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“I want a doll! I want a doll!” As fans of Valley of the Dolls will know, Neely O’Hara’s plea in the 1967 film based on the best-selling novel by Jacqueline Susann is a euphemistic cry for pills. That veracious desire for consumption, the hedonistic thrill of the purchase, also powers fashion – this season more than ever, as the industry untangles the see-now, buy-now model. 42 years and 1 day after Susann died, therefore, Jeremy Scott connected the two in a wildly ingenious Moschino show that played with semantics as much as clothes.

Obviously, there were puns. Most amusingly, Scott informed the press that there would be an instantly-shoppable “capsule collection with a powerful dose of capsules”, comprising rucksacks covered in brightly coloured pills, shoulder bags in the shape of medicine bottles and foil trays of soft capsules, and a T-shirt with a slogan warding off addiction: “Just say Moschi NO”.

More cleverly, however, Scott utilised tromp l’oeil prints and played with the idea of paper dolls: figures cut out of paper or card with separate paper clothes, usually attached to the dolls with folding paper tabs. Bombshell models including Gigi and Bella Hadid, Taylor Hill, Irina Shayk and Romee Strijd were thus reduced to the status of 2-D sheets, giant white paper tabs adorning their shoulders and hips as they strutted down the runway in evening dresses rendered entirely flat, with tromp l’oeil ripples of fabric forcing the front row to look harder than usual at the clothes.

Other models enjoyed the benefits of a tromp l’oeil bosom on a cropped top, or Victoria’s Secret model abs courtesy of swimming costumes and bodysuits (we wouldn’t say no).

Then there were signature Moschino skirt suits and chain belts and necklaces, a trench coat tied at the waist (the model holding a paper cut-out of an umbrella) a necklace of teddy bears – all painted on.

They certainly inspired wild-eyed joy amongst super fans, of which there are many: this is always the most rammed show venue in Milan. They’ll get their fix on Moschino.com. Others will be content to google Susann’s most prescient quotes. “Everyone has an identity. One of their own, and one for show.”

Source: British Vogue &  ELLIE PITHERS

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September 2016.

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Photos via British Vogue

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