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Images via British Vogue

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One of the most anticipated fashion shows of the Milan Fashion Week took place last Friday , 22 September 2017  at the  Triennale di Milano . Inside that elegant place,  Donatella Versace succeded to revive the glitter and the glory of  Gianni Versace ,  her beloved brother through a fabulous show, where familiar idolized figures such as Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Cambell, Carla Bruni, and Helena Christensen were there,  to pay  tribute to the legendary man of the international fashion Kingdom.

The supermodels didn’t hesitate to accept Donatella’s invitation to celebrate the life and work of Gianni Versace she said, in a show that marked the twentieth anniversary of his tragic death. “I finally found the courage to really go to the archives and pay tribute to Gianni,” Donatella explained in a small gathering before the show, noting that “it took a bit of pain” to get to a place where she was comfortable dealing with his legacy.

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“In one show you can’t really touch on everything Gianni did.” But she did her utmost, in twelve segments presented by current top models clad in outfits covered in her brother’s original prints. “Gianni was joy, he was happiness, full of life; and these prints were a big part of his personality,” Donatella said.

The prints drew on collections from 1991 to 1995, but it was the monumental spirit of the really early 1990s that filled the air of this tribute show: a time of unchartered territories, when Gianni was pulling up the roots of bourgeois “good taste” and shifting the paradigms with what Donatella called “take-it-or-leave-it, jaw-dropping, in-your-face sassiness.”

It was a time when supermodels were forged, when mannequins became more than just that, and influential people from the arts and beyond came together – Gianni, Elton John, George Michael, Madonna, Princess Diana.

It’s 26 years since the show that came to rule them all, autumn/winter 1991’s baroque collection, which saw Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista walk arm-in-arm down Versace’s runway for the finale, and where the designer premiered his swirly, golden baroque print.

On Friday evening in her optical white space at the   Triennale di Milano  Donatella opened her tribute show with that print, passing the baton to a new generation of girls she said are finally reflecting some of the character of the supes.

“For a long time they were taught to walk in a straight line and not look at anything,” the designer said, referring to the decades between the supermodel era and the character models that have emerged in recent years. “Tonight, if you want to smile, smile!”

Donatella declaimed…!

“I mean, except for me,” she added, laughing.

Perched on an armchair at the preview, she’d dressed her petite frame in a delicate baroque and leopard print silk shirt, super tailored trousers, and platform heels adorned with Versace’s Medusa heads.

“I tried to make it a little more street,” she said of the collection. “I didn’t want to be nostalgic so the show is upbeat.”

With an electronic, spoken-word soundtrack featuring a declaration of love she’d written for her brother – read by an American female voice – Donatella managed to balance out the emotion and the excitement.

One of my favorite dresses of the latest Collection…!

Princess Charlene of Monaco was among the guests of the front row.

Milan 22 September 2017

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Source:  British Vogue

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“A wildly ingenious Moschino show that played with semantics as much as clothes” Vogue

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“I want a doll! I want a doll!” As fans of Valley of the Dolls will know, Neely O’Hara’s plea in the 1967 film based on the best-selling novel by Jacqueline Susann is a euphemistic cry for pills. That veracious desire for consumption, the hedonistic thrill of the purchase, also powers fashion – this season more than ever, as the industry untangles the see-now, buy-now model. 42 years and 1 day after Susann died, therefore, Jeremy Scott connected the two in a wildly ingenious Moschino show that played with semantics as much as clothes.

Obviously, there were puns. Most amusingly, Scott informed the press that there would be an instantly-shoppable “capsule collection with a powerful dose of capsules”, comprising rucksacks covered in brightly coloured pills, shoulder bags in the shape of medicine bottles and foil trays of soft capsules, and a T-shirt with a slogan warding off addiction: “Just say Moschi NO”.

More cleverly, however, Scott utilised tromp l’oeil prints and played with the idea of paper dolls: figures cut out of paper or card with separate paper clothes, usually attached to the dolls with folding paper tabs. Bombshell models including Gigi and Bella Hadid, Taylor Hill, Irina Shayk and Romee Strijd were thus reduced to the status of 2-D sheets, giant white paper tabs adorning their shoulders and hips as they strutted down the runway in evening dresses rendered entirely flat, with tromp l’oeil ripples of fabric forcing the front row to look harder than usual at the clothes.

Other models enjoyed the benefits of a tromp l’oeil bosom on a cropped top, or Victoria’s Secret model abs courtesy of swimming costumes and bodysuits (we wouldn’t say no).

Then there were signature Moschino skirt suits and chain belts and necklaces, a trench coat tied at the waist (the model holding a paper cut-out of an umbrella) a necklace of teddy bears – all painted on.

They certainly inspired wild-eyed joy amongst super fans, of which there are many: this is always the most rammed show venue in Milan. They’ll get their fix on Moschino.com. Others will be content to google Susann’s most prescient quotes. “Everyone has an identity. One of their own, and one for show.”

Source: British Vogue &  ELLIE PITHERS

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September 2016.

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Photos via British Vogue

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The collection was inspired by “the new generation of princesses [who] are not only independent, but possess a keen perspective and point of view.” , the designers said.  Only Dolce & Gabbana could convert an inky, rainy afternoon in Milan into a fashion blooming…!

The theme was Disney Princesses. In a world of general crisis and political unstability, a show like this can bring only  possitivive attitude , as everybody needs some more glow, sparkle and fantacy…! I think, that is the only antidote.

The designers stuck to their signature shapes – A-line shift dresses, Fifties molto-sexy wiggle numbers and little military jackets – and rendered them Walt-worthy. Cinderella appeared in a blue lurex glitter dress, her hair tied with a blue bow; then Snow White in a red form-fitting gown embroidered with little dwarves. The mirror in Sleeping Beauty was smashed and sewn in shards onto a black dress; the mice from Cinderella were embroidered onto a white crepe mini dress. Cinders’ prince would have been taken with little red and black frogging jackets encrusted with diamantes and pearls, charms and military-looking badges and wind-up soldier embroidery.

Floral dresses sporting white tulip and pink rose prints offered a counterpoint to the pantomime dramatics, several exquisitely embroidered with chiffon flowers. But the pair didn’t keep it real for long. A good old Milanese finale comprising 76 models in identical peony pink, pale pink and silver sequinned party dresses embroidered with crystals rounded things off.

By Georgia Papadon

Source: British Vogue

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CIACOMO

Cuisine: Seafood

High fashion and local business meet in this understated yet stylish restaurant found on an anonymous residential street just 15 minutes from the historical center.

While dining among Milan’s elegant locals, don’t be surprised if you see Giorgio Armani or Orlando Bloom enjoying the cuisine too. If you’re not looking out for celebrities the decor is something to be marveled at: celadon-colored walls, bookshelves and a striking mosaic floor provide exquisite surroundings. The cuisine is seafood prepared with wonderful Italian simplicity. Try the linguine tossed with scampi and zucchini flowers.

CRACCO

Cuisine : ITALIAN NOUVEAU

The most awarded restaurant in Milan, Cracco has received the prestigious two Michelin star award and is 71st in San Pellegrino’s 100 best restaurants awards.

Chef Carlo Cracco is actively updating Milanese cuisine. Sample his renowned egg yolk spaghetti with garlic, olive oil and chili or black cod glazed with honey, coffee and broccoli. Expect these dishes to be well accompanied with the finest wines as this restaurant’s sommelier was selected as best sommelier in the world in 2010 according to Worldwide Sommelier Association.

IL TEATRO RESTAURANT at Four Seasons Hotel

Cuisine : Italian

The Il Patio garden of the Four Seasons Hotel is a fabulous backdrop to this gourmet restaurant.

But if you want to dine exclusively and separately from the hotel’s guests the restaurant offers the ‘Chef’s Table’, a private room where you can dine with the chef and learn the secrets of his recipes. The cuisine is true Italian as the food is sourced daily, locally and seasonally, allowing a new menu to be made every day. For those who care to learn the magical art of Italian cooking, Il Teatro offers cooking classes on demand. Participants prepare and cook a sample menu while tasting the finer ingredients along the way.

SADLER

Cuisine : Modern Italian

Claudio Sadler has dedicated his creativity to Italian cuisine.

Reinventing traditional dishes in bold ways using primary ingredients has earned the restaurant two Michelin stars and a listing in ‘Le Sorte’, an association that only includes restaurants dedicated to true Italian cuisine. Try, for example, the ‘goose liver, raisins, nuts, toasted pan brioches, bitter chocolate sauce, zest of orange and coffee’. The main restaurant is garnished throughout with modern art and there are three private dining rooms for groups of up to 12.

ARMANI  NOBU

Cuisine : JAPANESE WITH LATIN AMERICAN INFLUENCE

The Armani / Nobu restaurant is a marriage from heaven combining high Italian fashion with world-renowned sushi.

On the ground floor, in the casual lounge bar, sip cocktails accompanied by a selection of sushi. For a new sophisticated experience book a table on the first floor and order from a sumptuous menu designed by Nobuyuki Matsuhisa. There is also the Armani/Privé space that can be hired in addition with expert party planning specialists ready to tailor any event exactly to your needs.

Through British Vogue:

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Via British Vogue

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